Set gemstones using advanced setting techniques
Overview
This standard covers the skills to use different advanced techniques and styles of setting to secure various cuts of gemstones. Advanced settings can include:
- pavee setting with mixed stones
- calibre and channel setting
- a range of claw settings
- illusion/invisible setting
- gypsy setting with assorted shapes of stones
- pavee and thread settings with graduating stones
- a variety of shapes of diamonds and semi-precious stones
- hard to reach placements
You will need to understand the basics of gemmology which includes being able to assess and make adjustments to your designs according to gem hardness, toughness, cleavage, strengths and weaknesses and understand your practical applications within jewellery and silverware.
In producing gem set products, you will be required to work to instructions and to use a range of hand tools and techniques appropriate to the type of material being used and the style. You will be expected to take personal responsibility for your actions and for the quality and accuracy of the work carried out.
Performance criteria
You must be able to:
- research the range of advanced techniques and styles used in gem stone setting in line with project needs
- research basic gemmology information relevant to different settings in line with project needs
- use a range of different styles to set gems in line with industry best practice
- set gems using in a range of materials in line with industry best practice
- select hand tools to achieve advanced techniques in line with project needs
- set gems using advanced methods in line with industry best practice
- check the stones in the setting for level and height in line with industry best practice
- check the work for defects in line with project needs
- take action to rectify any defects detected in line with industry best practice
- complete the work to the given specification in line with workplace instructions
Knowledge and Understanding
You need to know and understand:
- safety precautions to be taken when setting gem stones
- where to find sources of information on advanced setting styles, techniques and gem stones
- how to make, harden, temper and sharpen tools
- how to lay out and cut a variety of styles
- advanced setting techniques
- basic gemmology
- how to avoid breakage of gemstones
- uses of holding devices
- setting tools and your different uses
- processes of jewellery manufacture
- uses of the carborundum stick and grinding tools
- finishing procedures after gem stone setting
- how to check that the gem stone setting meets the needs of the specification
- best practice in gem stone setting within chosen jewellery industry
- the importance of following the given specification and timescales
- common defects and ways to rectify these
Scope/range
1. Set gemstones styles include:
- pavee setting with mixed stones
- calibre and channel setting
- a range of claw settings
- illusion/invisible setting
- gypsy setting with assorted shapes of stones
- pavee and thread settings with graduating stones
- a variety of shapes of diamonds and semi-precious stones
- hard to reach placements
2. Materials include:
- silver
- gold
- platinum
- palladium
3. Methods include:
- scorper/graver
- air gravers
- stereo-microscopes
4. Basic gemmology includes:
- hardness
- toughness
- cleavage
- strengths and weaknesses
- practical applications within jewellery