Set gemstones by hand
Overview
This standard covers the skills required to set gemstones using different techniques. You will practice a range of setting styles and uses for gem stones as well as basic gemmology which includes being able to assess and make adjustments to your designs according to gem hardness, toughness, cleavage, strengths and weaknesses and understand your practical applications within jewellery and silverware.
You will be required to work to instructions and to use a range of hand tools and a variety of techniques appropriate to the type of material being used and type of setting used. You will also need to understand the basics of gemmology.
You will be expected to visually check the quality of your work, seek guidance on any defects and on the appropriate actions to rectify them and ensure that the finished work meets the given specification which may include timescales.
Performance criteria
You must be able to:
- research the different techniques for setting gem stones in line with project needs
- research basic gemmology information relevant to different settings in line with project needs
- select the setting requirements for different projects in line with industry best practice
- assess the gem stones for flaws, cracks and defects in line with workplace instructions
- choose the setting metal and stones for the number of holes in line with project needs
- prepare materials and equipment for setting in line with workplace instructions
- adjust stones in the settings in line with industry best practice
- secure gemstones in a range of settings and metals in line with workplaces instructions
- seek support and guidance when problems arise in line with workplace instructions
- check the work for defects in line with project needs
- take action to rectify any defects detected in line with industry best practice
- complete the work to the given specification in line with workplace instructions**
Knowledge and Understanding
You need to know and understand:
- safety precautions to be taken when setting gem stones
- basic gemmology
- where to find sources of information on setting styles, techniques and gem stones
- gem stone setting techniques and procedures
- gem stone setting terminology
- gem stone setting tools, materials and equipment
- how to determine the suitability of metal for settings different gem stones
- how to care for and maintain tools
- cleaning up procedures after gem stone setting
- the sequence of application to remove surface marks
- how to identify difficulties prior to setting
- finishing procedures after gem stone setting including filing, grain tooling and buffing
- who to ask for support and when to do so
- how to check that the gem stone setting meets the needs of the specification
- best practice in gem stone setting within chosen jewellery industry
- the importance of following the given specification and timescales
- common defects and ways to rectify these
Scope/range
1. Range of settings includes:
- rub over
- thread and grain
- star
- gypsy/flush
- pavée
- a range of claw settings
2. Secure gemstones methods:
- scorper/graver
- air gravers
- stereo-microscopes
3. Set work in following metals:
- copper
- silver
- gold
- platinum
- palladium
4. Basic gemmology includes:
- hardness
- toughness
- cleavage
- strengths and weaknesses
- practical applications within jewellery